How to Choose Wall Sconces and Where to Mount Them

Wall sconces look simple in a showroom, then go up at home and suddenly glare into your eyes, stick out into a narrow hallway or throw a strange pool of light halfway up the wall. Most of those problems come from choosing the fitting before deciding what job it has to do and exactly where it will sit.

I plan wall lighting for clients every week, and the same handful of decisions separate a sconce you love from one you avoid switching on. Here is how to choose wall sconces for each room and the mounting heights I actually use.

Decide what the wall sconces need to do

Every sconce does one of three jobs, and the right shape follows from the job.

• Ambient light. Up-lighters and up-and-down sconces wash the wall and ceiling, softening a room and making it feel taller. Good for living rooms, hallways and stairwells.
• Task light. Swing-arm and directional sconces put light on a book, a mirror or a worktop. Good beside beds and at bathroom mirrors.
• Accent light. Small sconces flanking a fireplace, a doorway or a painting add rhythm and draw the eye. They are about atmosphere, not about being able to see.

A common mistake is buying a decorative accent sconce and expecting it to light a whole room. A typical candle-style sconce with a 25 W equivalent bulb gives about 200 to 250 lumens. That is lovely as a glow, but not enough to read by.

Mounting heights for wall sconces in each room

Measure to the centre of the fitting, from the finished floor. These are the starting points I use in a room with a 2.4 to 2.7 m ceiling:

For bathrooms, check the zone rules before you buy anything, because the IP rating you need depends on distance from the bath or shower. Our guide to bathroom lighting IP ratings and zones covers this in detail.

Why I do not follow the 60 inch rule

You will see the same advice everywhere: mount every sconce at 60 inches, about 152 cm, from the floor. It is a reasonable average for a standard ceiling, but treated as a rule it causes a lot of ugly results.

The real test is whether you can see the bare bulb. A sconce with an open-bottom shade mounted at 152 cm in a living room shows its bulb to anyone sitting on the sofa, because seated eye level is around 110 to 120 cm. In a hallway, where everyone stands, the same fitting might show its bulb from above to a tall person if it has an open top.

So I start with the table above, then hold the actual fitting against the wall, or a cardboard mock-up of the same size, and check it from where people will really be: sitting, standing and walking past. With a 3.5 m ceiling I often go up to 190 cm or more, so the fittings do not look stranded low on a tall wall. Five minutes with a helper and a roll of masking tape saves you from patching plaster later.

Size, depth and finish

Scale matters more than people think. In a living room, a sconce of 30 to 45 cm tall suits most walls. Either side of a mirror, aim for a fitting roughly one third to one half the mirror's height. Beside a bed, keep it smaller so it does not loom over your pillow.

Check projection, which is how far the sconce sticks out from the wall. In a hallway under 1 m wide, keep it under about 10 cm so nobody catches a shoulder on it. Swing-arm reading lights can project 40 cm or more when extended, so allow for that beside a bed.

Finishes are personal, but practical too. Polished brass and chrome show fingerprints on any sconce you touch to switch on. Matte black and aged brass hide marks better. Opal glass gives the softest, glare-free light. Clear glass looks beautiful but needs a carefully chosen bulb, ideally a frosted or filament LED at 2700 K.

Hardwired or plug-in sconces

Hardwired sconces sit on a wall box with the cable hidden in the wall and are controlled by a wall switch. They look neatest and are the right choice for new builds and renovations. Running new cable usually means chasing plaster, so it is best done when a room is being redecorated anyway. Budget for an electrician, usually 80 to 150 pounds per point if the cable route is straightforward.

Plug-in sconces have a cord running down the wall to a socket and an inline switch. They are ideal for renters and for adding bedside light without opening walls. A fabric cord in a colour matched to the wall, or a slim paintable cable cover, hides most of the line.

Whichever you pick, read the specification before ordering. Check the maximum wattage, bulb cap type, whether it is dimmable and the IP rating. Our walk-through on how to read a light fixture spec sheet explains each line.

Sconces beside artwork and fireplaces

A pair of sconces either side of a painting looks classic but rarely lights the painting itself well. They mostly light the wall around it and can cause glare on glazed frames. If the art is the point, a picture light or a ceiling spot does better, as we explain in how to light artwork at home without glare or fading. Use flanking sconces for the room's mood, not as the artwork's main light.

Frequently asked questions

How high should wall sconces be hung?

A centre height of 150 to 170 cm suits most living rooms and hallways with standard ceilings. Beside a mirror, mount them close to eye level, around 165 cm. Always check the final height from a seated and standing position so the bulb stays hidden.

How far apart should wall sconces be?

In living spaces, 2 to 2.5 m between fittings gives even light, and in hallways 2.5 to 3 m is usually enough. Either side of a bathroom mirror, 75 to 100 cm apart works for most faces. Closer spacing creates a stronger pattern of light on the wall.

Can you install wall sconces without hardwiring?

Yes, plug-in sconces only need a nearby socket and come with a cord and inline switch. Battery LED sconces also exist, though their light output is usually low. Both are good options for renters or for walls where chasing in cable is impractical.